Vintage day was one for the books and was nothing short of extraordinary. We were welcomed with a curated line-up of older vintages, among them the rare and remarkable Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1992. It felt like stepping into a candy store for grown-ups, each bottle a limited treasure available in only the smallest of quantities.
Thelema Mountain Vineyards is a proudly family-owned and run estate, beautifully situated in the majestic Simonsberg Mountain range of Stellenbosch. It is home to both Thelema and Sutherland wines, each expressing a distinct sense of place and the passion behind each wine.
Sutherland Chardonnay
Our tasting began with the Sutherland Chardonnay, featuring the 2007 and 2016 vintages. Grown in the Elgin Valley where ocean breezes and the cool-climate region shape the character of the fruit. Known for its vibrant fruit and creamy oak influence, both vintages revealed a restrained elegance, allowing their natural freshness and well-rounded character to shine through. From the very first sip, we knew that the day ahead would be nothing short of remarkable!
Thelema Chardonnay
We had the pleasure of tasting the 2011 and 2018 vintages, followed by their current release, the 2023. Fermented and matured in oak barrels, the latest vintage opens with bright notes of lemon zest, delicately layered with hints of stone fruit and a whisper of toasted almonds. In contrast, the older vintages revealed more developed aromas of marmalade, ripe peach and a lovely depth, all carried through by a delightful freshness on the finish.
Thelema Ed’s Reserve Chardonnay
We were treated to the 2018 vintage of this barrel-fermented Chardonnay, made from a distinctive clone known for its expressive fragrance and character. This special wine is a heartfelt tribute to Edna, the mother-in-law of Thelema’s founder, Gyles Webb. Graceful floral aromas rise from the glass, leading to an elegant palate with a refined structure and a lingering, graceful finish.
Thelema Riesling
We explored the 2009 and 2013 vintages, made from vines planted back in 1984. Both wines revealed a fragrant, gently spiced nose with a touch of sweetness, beautifully balanced by a well-rounded palate. These vintages show just how gracefully Thelema’s Riesling evolves, maintaining their freshness while gaining depth and complexity with age.
Sutherland Pinot Noir
Moving on to the reds, we began with the Sutherland Pinot Noir, tasting the 2010 and 2014 vintages. Both have evolved beyond their youthful red fruit character, developing earthy, savoury notes and soft, well-integrated tannins. Aged for nine months in barrel, the wines show gentle oak influence and lovely balance. The 2014 vintage stood out for us. That year in Elgin delayed the harvest, allowing for slow ripening and resulting in wines with exceptional purity and finesse.
Thelema Shiraz
We tasted three vintages, namely 2006, 2009 and 2015, with the 2015 standing out as our favourite. Over time, the vibrant fruit has mellowed, revealing earthy, smoky and savoury layers. These wines have aged beautifully, gaining complexity while retaining a smooth, rounded texture that speaks to their elegance and balance. Thelema’s Shiraz in general always stands out, and these vintages prove just how well it can age.
Thelema Merlot
We then moved on to the Merlot, with the 2004 and 2013 vintages poured alongside the current 2021 release. Both older vintages were still drinking beautifully, showing a red-brown hue in the glass and evolved notes of tobacco and savoury charcuterie, with soft, silky tannins. In contrast, the 2021 offered vibrant fruit and a lingering finish that carried through to the very last sip in the glass.
Thelema Merlot Reserve
The Merlot Reserve is a limited release, made from the finest Merlot parcels of each vintage. Once again, the 2004 and 2013 vintages showed remarkable elegance with savoury depth, while the current 2022 vintage impressed with vibrant fruit and hints of leather. With its velvety tannins and layered complexity, it’s yet another example of how beautifully South African Merlot can age.
Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon
We compared the 2013 vintage with the current 2022 release. The 2022 shows vibrant fruit flavours with a lighter body, reflecting its cool-climate Elgin origin. It’s firm yet elegant. The 2013, on the other hand, opened with notes of cedar and subtle spice, with softened tannins and an elegant profile that has aged beautifully.
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon
A wonderful selection was showcased, including vintages from 1994, 2007, 2011 through to 2015 and the current 2021 release. We had the rare treat of tasting the 1994 vintage. It’s a wine that has aged gracefully over 30+ years. It displayed a brownish hue in the glass, with notes of dried fruit, earthy complexity and beautifully soft tannins which was divine.
CWG Cabernet Sauvignon
Of all the Cabernet Sauvignons showcased, this was a clear favourite and the only one not available for sale. Produced for the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild, a collective of some of South Africa’s most esteemed winemakers, this 2003 vintage still displayed concentrated fruit flavours. With its impressive structure and refined tannins, it ticked all the right boxes.
Thelema Cabernet-Merlot
We moved on to the oldest vintage of the day, the 1992 Bordeaux-style blend. It offered hints of dried fruit and earthy undertones, with soft, smooth tannins and a rounded mouthfeel. This remarkable wine also earned the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award in 1994. It was a real treat to have tasted such a beautifully aged wine.
Thelema The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon
One of the true highlights of the day was tasting the 2004 and 2012 vintages alongside the current 2022 release of Thelema’s iconic The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon. The signature mint character is said to come from the nearby Eucalyptus trees, with their aromatic compounds transferred through the air to the grape berries growing in this particular vineyard.
The 2004 vintage, being the maiden release, made this tasting even more special. Now beautifully matured, it showed notes of mocha, leather and that unmistakable mint freshness that lingers on the palate. The 2012 displayed great balance between fruit and savoury depth, while the 2022 offered vibrant youthfulness with the mint already present and promising even more complexity with time. Aged for 18 to 20 months in oak, this wine continues to stand out for its unique character and elegance and such a treat to be able to taste the different vintages together.
Sutherland Emily Petit Verdot
Created from the finest vineyards in Elgin, Gyles Webb created a Reserve Collection as a tribute to his four granddaughters. This Petit Verdot was named in honour of the second, Emily. We had the pleasure of tasting the 2015 vintage alongside the current 2022 release. Bold and expressive, the wine bursts with dark fruit and violet notes, underpinned by vibrant acidity. The 2015 shows beautifully with softened, well-integrated tannins, offering a more refined and harmonious expression of this powerful variety.
Thelema Rabelais
We ended our tasting on a high note with one of Thelema’s flagships, the Rabelais. The 2010 and 2018 vintages were poured alongside the current 2021 release, each showcasing the evolution and depth of this refined blend. Produced from the finest Bordeaux components, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, the wine reveals layers of dark fruit, polished tannins and remarkable balance. Each vintage spent 18 to 20 months in barrel, allowing the structure and complexity to unfold beautifully.
Francois Rabelais was a 16th century French writer. His first novel describes an abbey on the banks of the Loire named Thélème. Thelema has been making wince since 1988 and the finest red wine of the vintage blended from Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot honours the man who gave Thelema their name.
As the final sip of Rabelais drew the day to a close, we left with full hearts and a deep appreciation for the stories behind each bottle. Vintage Day at Thelema was nothing short of spectacular and it felt truly special to have had the rare opportunity to taste older vintages not usually available to the public.
Categories: Sutherland Vineyards, Thelema Mountain Vineyards
